Flexitarian feasts
12.09.11
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Source: Sydney Morning Herald
Commentary: The fatter the better?
01.09.11
Chris Cosentino, administrative chef of San Francisco’s Incanto restaurant, is considered one of the trendiest of a new increase of restaurateur. His bio notes that “he cooks in an earthy rustic Italian chic, with a penchant for meat—cured, raw or roasted; traditional cut or offal. Meat is his meditate.”
As a result, Incanto’s in-housecharcuterie selectionranges from mortadella to fennel salame to a sweetbread terrine to vigour-cured pork liver.Cosentinoeven has a specialty entrée made with pigskin, which he says “has its own uniqueness, its own configuration.” Along with “pigskin pasta,” in which marinated hide is braised until tender, chilled, then cranked through a pasta cutter to display “spaghetti,” he creates his own ciccioli, sausage made by braising scraps of meat with fat, skinand chicharons, acute-friedpork rind piecesseasoned with garlic and rosemary.
Low-fat it ain’t.
Now, most nutritionists would require that as a once-in-awhile treat, such a caloric overload would be an acceptable part of the guarded, low-fat diet upon which we Americans are relentlessly urged to subsist. We’re told by every physician and dietician with a mediator that skim milk, low-fat cheese, lean meats must be the only animal foods we’re allowed to shoo-fly into our daily diets.
Source: CattleNetwork.com